Journal of Cosmetic Science and Trichology

(Annual (One issue per year))

ABSTRACT

Vicinal diol-containing hydroxy acids constitute a structurally diverse and biologically relevant class of compounds widely used in cosmetic science and dermatology. These molecules including α-hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, aldonic, uronic, and aldaric acids, sugar alcohols, salicylic acid derivatives, and C18 oxylipins possess cis-vicinal diol or α-hydroxy-carboxylate motifs capable of forming reversible coordination complexes with boron species. Under neutral to mildly alkaline conditions, boric acid and borate anions interact with these functionalities to generate five-membered cyclic borate esters in which boron adopts a tetrahedral geometry. Such dynamic, pH-dependent complexation can significantly alter physicochemical properties, including effective acidity, solubility, stability, lipophilicity, and supramolecular organization. This review examines the chemistry, stereochemical requirements, and biological implications of boron complex formation with cosmetically relevant hydroxy acids such as glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, and salicylic acids; sugar acids including gluconic, glucuronic, and glucaric acids; polyols such as mannitol, sorbitol, and mannose; L-ascorbic acid; and 9,10-dihydroxy derivatives of mono-, di-, tri-, and tetra-unsaturated C18 fatty acids. Across these structurally diverse systems, boron complexation introduces multifunctional effects, including controlled release of active acids, modulation of irritation potential, enhanced oxidative stability, metal chelation, film formation, and potential regulation of quorum sensing and biofilm formation. Collectively, current evidence suggests that boron complexes of vicinal diol compounds represent a versatile and promising platform for next-generation cosmetic and dermatological formulations. By integrating coordination chemistry with skin biology, these reversible boron-diol systems offer innovative strategies for barrier support, microbiome modulation, anti-inflammatory activity, and protection against environmental stressors. All boron complexes discussed herein are therefore of potential relevance in cosmetology and, more broadly, in dermatological applications, warranting further experimental and clinical investigation.

Keywords: Hydroxy Acids; Sugar Acids; Polyols; Sugars; Borates; Cosmetic Dermatology